The past week there hasn't been much wind, or much swell. That said, for Chile the waves have still been shoulder to a little overhead on some days so I am not complaining! We have mostly been surfing at Matanzas where we live, a point break on rocks, which when bigger you can take off in front of the rocks and get a great long left into the bay, and when smaller you surf from the point of the rocks into the bay. There is a whole lot of paddling involved in Chile, due to the Humboldt current, swell direction and breaking lefts, so you almost have to continuously put in a few strokes to stay put, let alone if you catch a long wave. Sometimes its best just to come in and walk up the beach and launch again! So I am getting paddle fit at least! My surfing is improving, I had a bit of a confidence knock after going over the falls and kneeing myself in the eye, so I keep chickening out of sucky dropping waves, but a few days of small stuff has got me back into it again...I hope! I don't have a dedicated camera man unfotunately, (he is normally surfing too!) hence the photos of me not actually on a wave, but I'll try harder to get some better pics!
Waiting for waves and chilly mornings...
We had a walk round the condominium this morning. There are so many outrageous wooden houses (in this relatively rich part), mostly wooden cabins on stilts, all overlooking the sea with massive glass windows. There are still a few plots for sale here, so we found our perfect plot overlooking the sea, if we were to have any money to buy it and build a house! Dream on...
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