Sunday 21 October 2012

The BEST kind of day off

I wouldn't normally take precious leave for a UK forecast, as it can be quite fickle and I have a few trips planned with my 5 weeks a year, but Wednesday seemed like Gwithian was going to go off! Big swell, (with a little south in it), Southerly winds 20-30 knots, and sunny!

We left Tuesday night for a surf at Fistral, which was as always, like a zoo. Way too many people, and if you did catch a wave there was almost definitely a few people on the inside in the way. Despite this, it was big, but high springs so the waves were a bit fat. The most entertaining bit of the session was when we came in the high shorebreak, the fence has ripped away from the sand dune and a few people were getting tumbled in it as they came in. It was cold when we finished, my feet were like complete ice blocks! Unfortunately time for my boots...

Wednesday we woke up at Gwithian with high tide, and decided after a wait we would head to Mexico's with George Shillito, Mike Ellis and Jeff Scott. We had a good session, I was on 3.7 and 68l, on which I was completely overpowered sometimes and then with no wind the next, classic. It came to low and dumpy so we dragged all our kit up the massive sanddune and had an amazing atheletes lunch of burgers and sandwiches (thanks Jeff!). On our afternoon session we took turns with photos, but the wind was more offshore and more gusty, it was really hard work. We had some really nice waves though, and when the wind died with high tide, we couldn't resist running up the hill (again) and grabbing our surfboards. Amazing day well worth taking leave for!

Today we also had some good swell at Godrevy, big, 14 second period and offshore. The waves looked great but I struggled a little on my 5'10'' with speed in catching them and how busy it was on the peaks. Could have done with a 6'8'' gun today! Here are some photos:

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