It was so perfect when we arrived, perfect double overhead barrels peeling left, absolutely amazing! Our house overlooks the sea, it has an all glass front with decking, BBQ, workout area, it’s incredible! We surfed the evening we arrived, so happy to be in just a suit after boots and hood in the UK. The next day we surfed Matanzas again, then went with Robby Swift to Roca Cuadrada, but haven’t had an amazing surf yet as the current where we went in was pretty strong and we haven’t done the rock launch yet as it was pretty knarly with up to double overhead barrels!
After that, it has been windy every day! We have been going to Churillos for side on jumping. I tried my custom yesterday with a 4.2 and it felt amazing! Not too small but really controlled through gybing and bottom turning and much less bouncy on chop. We should get some down the line conditions tomorrow to try it out. Today we had to be up at 5 to swap our car for Robby’s in Santiago, (long story) so we missed most of today unfortunately. Any way here are some pictures with lots more to come!
Loading up our pickup:
Peeling lines to the horizon:
Arriving at Matanzas:
Loving the Chilean wine:
Watermelon for breakfast:
Trying my new custom with K4 fins for the first time at Churillos jumping spot:
Backside:
Top turn:
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